Do you bother with blusher? Or are your cheeks so flush-prone they could serve as radiators for the entire house?
Most of us don’t notice how our colour begins to fade with age but, sooner or later, we all look more tired, sallow and less than our best.
Thankfully, a touch of rouge can transform a dull complexion, turning back time (or perhaps just the effect of a hangover) and adding life, youthfulness, grooming and polish to our faces. It even helps bring out the whites of our eyes. Of course, the aim is to look healthy and glowing, not as though you’re suffering from hypertension, so here’s what you need to know to handle blusher like a pro.
* Start with texture. Powder blusher is the most popular format. It adds a groomed, polished finish to make-up and is also kinder over enlarged pores and bumpy textured skin. But it can accentuate wrinkles too, especially on very dry complexions, and cause skin to appear even more dehydrated. Bear in mind, too, that formulations with sparkle or glitter can sit in lines and wrinkles, so don’t go overboard with shimmer.
Creme blusher, which can come in different formats including sticks, has the most natural finish because it melts into the skin and leaves a faintly dewy finish. It’s also easy to apply with your fingers, making it simple to rub off, too. But beware: dry skins can act like blotting paper, which means it can wear off faster. That’s why applying moisturiser and primer under make-up is so important.
* Choose the right colour. To find the most natural shade for you, simply pinch your cheeks and then try to match the colour. That natural pinky-rose hue won’t change with seasonal fashions, so it’s hard to get wrong.
However, for trend followers, MUA and Beauty Coach Lina Cameron, who specialises in beauty coaching lessons, says that, in winter, it’s best to opt for soft warm tones such as soft apricot and coral, and to avoid dark bronze shades which can be ageing. Peachier tones also counteract excess redness in the skin, so they may be best if you’re inclined to high colouring or rosacea and you don’t want to end up looking like Aunt Sally.
* Position it slightly higher. Don’t be intimidated. You don’t need a degree in architecture just to apply blusher correctly. Most people are used to simply smoothing it directly over the apples of their cheeks (the bit that bulges when you smile at the mirror) or stroking it under their cheekbone to add contour. But as we get older, our cheeks (as with so many things!) begin to droop slightly, so this may no longer be the best way to do it. Instead, start at the apples of your cheeks, then blend upwards and outwards towards the ears. Placing it higher in this way and covering a slightly larger area helps define and lift your features, counters a sagging jowl and gives a brighter, livelier look.
Lina suggests, “A good indication of where to start is if you trace an imaginary line down from the centre of the eye to the cheek. Swirl the blush over the apples of your cheek, then stroke it diagonally up and back towards the ear, then up toward the temples and softly along the hairline.”
* Build it up gradually. The trick to getting a finish that looks as though it’s a natural flush that’s coming from within, rather than simply being painted on top, is to build it up gradually. Start with minimal product and add a little more, bit by bit. This kind of layering gives you more control, but what if you still manage to overdo it? If you went overboard with cream blusher, it can often be rubbed straight off, but adding a little foundation on top will certainly take it down. Too much powder blusher? Dilute it by brushing face powder on top.
As a final flattering finish, Zoe Peplow, Brand Ambassador for Illamasqua, adds, “Applying a cream highlighter on top of the cheekbones and around the brow gives an injection of light to the centre of the face and also helps lift the features.“
Worth trying:
* Creme blusher: Clarins Multi-Blush Compact, £18.50 in Rose
* Powder blusher: The Body Shop All-In-One Cheek Colour in Flushed, £8
* Apricot blusher with a touch of shimmer: Nars Blush in Orgasm, £23
* Cream highlighter: Illamasqua Gleam in Aurora, £22
If you have any blusher tips or stories, we’d love to hear them! And when did ‘rouge’ became ‘blusher’. Any ideas?
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