In this Beauty Tips blog, Beauty Guru Jocelyn Bailey, tells us about anti-ageing ingredients…
If you often wish that your face mirror had the same Rewind button you have on your DVD player, the good news is that you really can turn the clock back on your dial, so to speak. That’s because some anti-ageing skincare ingredients make a genuine, visible difference. These are five of the best.
Antioxidants
The best known antioxidants are the ACE vitamins (literally, vitamins A, C and E), but others include green tea, lycopene (in concentrated tomato products), grapeseed oil, co-enzyme Q10, selenium, zinc, etc. They work by inhibiting and even reversing the destructive action of oxidants (think of this as the human equivalent of rust) which are triggered by sun damage, pollution, smoking, etc., and which cause lines, wrinkles, crepiness and loss of elasticity. Antioxidants work in much the same way as vitamin C-rich lemon juice works to prevent the browning – or oxidation – of a cut apple.
Hyaluronic acid
HA is found naturally in your skin and it has powerful moisture-retaining properties. A single molecule can hold over 1,000 times its own weight in water so, when it’s added to moisturisers, it not only feels soothing and softening, but provides a plumping effect. That’s why it’s also used in medical and cosmetic wrinkle-filling treatments such as Restylane.
Peptides
In essence these are proteins that leave a moisturising, protective shield over the surface of the skin, but they can also work as messengers that tell the cells to turn on particular functions such as cell repair, cell renewal and collagen production. Variations such as pentapeptides, activate particular cellular activities (collagen boosting, for example) in order to fight visible ageing, while other synthetic peptides, including polypeptides and hexapetides, additionally carry additional hydrating, repairing molecules to the skin cells. However, they can take some weeks to deliver maximum benefits.
Retinol
This is a form of vitamin A that has been proven to have impressive wrinkle-reversing capacity because of the way it increases cell turnover and boosts collagen. Its anti-ageing benefits were discovered while it was initially trialled as an acne treatment and patients began reporting its happy side effects. Being so active, it’s not ideal for sensitive skin which can experience redness and irritation. Fortunately, it comes in different forms, from retinoic acid (the prescription version) to the milder, less irritating retinyl palmitate, retinaldehyde and pro-retinol.
The destructiveness of UV-rays, both with regard to ageing and even skin cancer, is irrefutable, which is why sun-protection is the greatest wrinkle-delayer we know. Don’t be influenced by the vitamin D/osteoporosis issue – if you need more vitamin D, it’s safer and more effective to take supplements. SPF numbers have changed over the years so the minimum protection you should now wear is SPF15.
See skincare products picked by Jocelyn
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