Winter causes quite a few problems for skin, the most obvious being dryness. But if you don’t pay sufficient attention to it, skin can become subtly damaged and increasingly uncomfortable, tight, itchy, flaky, red and blotchy.
Here’s how it happens: your skin’s natural oils normally provide a protective lipid layer or barrier that maintains moisture levels, but when this barrier function is compromised, skin becomes increasingly sensitive and prone to inflammation. Since that barrier naturally becomes less effective with age, older skin is more and more prone to this kind of sensitivity and irritation.
The remedy is not only to replenish missing moisture with helpful ingredients, but also to stop using anything your skin finds irritating or harsh. This includes toners or products containing alcohol, astringent or witch hazel, along with coarse scrubs, microdermabrasion kits, exfoliating brushes and cloths that leave your face feeling raw or sensitised. In addition, avoid strong alkaline detergents which strip away natural lipids. If your skin feels tight after washing, switch to a gentler cleanser and don’t exfoliate with anything rougher than a flannel. Watch your water temperature, too, since hot water also dissolves your natural oils. Keep skin calm with tepid water, and avoid long hot baths and showers – and even putting your face in the shower. To dry your skin afterwards, blot – never rub – with a soft towel.
More immediately, to treat dryness and begin restoring barrier function, apply emollients as often as you need to, and certainly more than once a day. Most moisturisers contain two types of ingredient: humectants such as glycerine or hyaluronic acid, which draw water into the top layers of skin and provide a plumped-up look; and occlusives, which are fatty, oily materials such as beeswax, lecithin and mineral oils that help block moisture loss. Some of the most helpful reparative agents resemble the substances between skin cells (think of them as working a bit like the cement between bricks in a wall) which help maintain the hydrolipidic barrier. These include ceramides, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid. In addition, antioxidants such vitamins A, C and E not only help maintain barrier function, but reduce inflammation, and reverse and prevent free radical damage. Don’t be deterred by the science; there’s something to suit all budgets.
Budget-priced:
Eucerin Aquaphor Soothing Skin Balm, £8.50, is recommended by dermatologists as an ideal moisturising and barrier product for very dry, cracked or irritated skin. It contains glycerin to hydrate, panthenol to condition, and bisabolol to calm. Loved by MUAs, it is gentle enough for babies – and celebrities.
Eau Thermale Avene Skin Recovery Cream, Rich, £12.38 has a high concentration of Thermal Spring Water which has proven anti-irritation properties. It also contains mineral oil, glycerin and shea butter to restore the hydrolipidic film, calm irritation and comfort stressed-out skin.
Mid-priced:
Embryolisse Smooth Radiant Complexion Immediate Anti Fatigue, £24.99 includes hyaluronic acid for intense hydration, antioxidant vitamin E to repair and protect, plus the calming, smoothing benefits of oat extract.
The Body Shop Oils of Life Intensely Revitalising Cream, £26, features the protective, reparative and nourishing effects of antioxidants and fatty acids from black cumin, rosehip and camellia plant oils.
Spoil yourself:
Clarins HydraQuench Cream-Mask, £33, employs two types of hyaluronic acid for maximum hydration. Although it works as a 10-minute treatment, you can also apply it thickly as a rich, comforting night cream.
Do you suffer from sensitive skin during the chilly winter months? What is your go-to saviour product?
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