The bad news first. Sorry, but pores don’t open and close like doors, so ignore any product claims to the contrary.
They’re just openings to hair follicles, oil and sweat glands and you’re covered with them from scalp to soles. Your face alone has thousands of them.
Their purpose is to help skin, which is the body’s largest organ, flush out toxins (via sweat), regulate temperature (otherwise we’d overheat) and also lubricate itself in order to remain flexible and healthy.
Broadly speaking, fairer, drier skins have smaller, less noticeable pores. Oilier, darker, more olive skins have larger ones. And where the oil glands are larger, such as over the nose, forehead and chin, they’re more visible.
Your original pore size was genetically determined, so feel free to blame your parents if yours are over-generously proportioned. But while pores are tricky to shrink, they’re disappointingly easy to enlarge, so size can also be our own fault. Trapped sebum and skin cells can clog them, leading to spots, which in turn can cause them to swell and expand, as can the effects of picking/squeezing. What’s worse, the effects can be permanent. Sun exposure and age also weakens skin’s supportive collagen, so pores don’t hold together as tightly as they used to do.
Since large pores can also make skin look older, what can we do about them?
3-point action plan…
1) Pore hygiene: Pores look larger when clogged, so keep them clear by cleansing twice a day. Be gentle with technique, pressure and products since irritated, swollen skin also makes them appear larger. Always use warm (not hot) water, rinse well and blot dry carefully – don’t rub. A Clarisonic brush may help, but it isn’t cheap – £155. In addition, exfoliation instantly clears dead cells (and skin always looks fresh and rejuvenated afterwards – win, win) so try a weekly scrub; while regular cleansing masks help further to hoover out pore-deep grime and even stimulate the circulation for a more glowing effect.
2) Pore refining: Twice daily moisturising protection keeps the skin, including around the pores, supple. For the daytime, always use one with SPF protection. At night, retinol products have multiple benefits, including sun damage-reversing effects, improved cell production, plus anti-bacterial benefits, blackhead-bashing, wrinkle-smoothing and general resurfacing. Dermatologist clinics can also use more powerful exfoliating treatments, such as glycolic or saicylic acid peels to resurface the skin, or Fraxel laser treatments (three to five sessions are usually recommended) to tighten the collagen around the pores.
3) Pore disguise: Thankfully, there are loads of ways to disguise large, open pores. One trick is to wear a silicone primer under make-up. Benefit The Porefessional, £26, temporarily fills the tiny openings for a smooth poreless effect, especially after make-up goes on top. Alternatively, Clinique Pore Refining Solutions Instant Perfector, £21, not only claims to make pores look 50% smaller, but provides a slight tint with a matte finish that lasts exceptionally well, even through heat, humidity and sweat. In addition, any make-up with an ‘illuminating’ effect also helps by blurring those pesky pits along with any fine lines.
Finally, since shine always exaggerates open pores, keep your complexion matte with face powder or – for a much lighter alternative – blotters. Check out NYX Professional Makeup Matte Blotting Papers, £4 for 50 sheets, or even Sheiseido Pureness Oil-Control Blotting Paper, £19 for 100 sheets which also contain antibacterial and antioxidant benefits.
Do you struggle with your pores? Tell us your tips below!
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